Rome's food markets have changed over the years through the capital's historic landscape and urbanistic development. This article will walk you through the evolution of the Eternal City following the story of three iconic Roman Markets: historic market Trajan from the Roman Empire, Campo dei Fiori, located in the heart of Rome, and Trionfale market, a short walk from the Vatican City. Their history and location make them one of the most exciting destinations for lovers of Roman cuisine.
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As a Roman native, I want to share insights into three of our city's most remarkable food markets, each embodying a unique aspect of Rome's history and culture.
These aren't just culinary hotspots; they're located near some of Rome's most famous tourist sites and offer a glimpse into the city's ever-changing culinary scene.
- Trajan Market: the first supermarket during the Roman Empire now a museum
- Campo dei Fiori: the commercial centre of Rome during the 16th century
- Trionfale Market: the modern local market close to the Vatican Museum
Through this article, you'll discover why these markets are integral to understanding Rome's gastronomic journey from antiquity to modernity and why they are must-visit destinations for anyone truly wanting to experience the culinary essence of the Eternal City.
The capital's fame rose and fell over time, and its urbanistic landscape expanded and reshaped accordingly.
Through these food markets, you will follow how the capital's fame and culinary traditions evolved, shaped, and adapted throughout history.
If you are interested on how history shaped Italian cuisine, you can read the article: Italian food history and cultural influences.
For more information about History of roman food you can read the article: Traditional Italian food by region: Lazio
Note: I studied Civil Engineering at San Pietro in Vincoli, next to the Colosseum. The urbanistic development of Rome through history was part of a course. If you want to know more about it you can read my source of information: BOOK
Trajan Market
Historical background
(Map 1: Rome I century B.C.)
Starting with the oldest Market Trajan in 179 B.C., Rome has centuries of history in developing food markets and international commerce.
Market squares were found in Greece and Rome, but large covered markets originated in Rome, similar to our modern Supermarket and with the sole purpose of selling foods.
Map Data © 2015 Google
These farmer's markets were called Macellum, a word still used in Italian today but refers only to slaughterhouses.
Following the Trajan Market, more Macellums were built in Roman provinces, such as Pompei and Rimini, and other trading countries like Greece, Libya, and Algeria.
Its role in modern-day Rome
The Trajan Markets have recently been restored - in the last 20 years - and their marble artifacts and fragments have been reorganized and rejuvenated.
With a beautiful architectural structure spanning over tree level, they are worth a visit if you are in Rome.
They are located right in the center next to Piazza Venezia.
You will find plenty of food .... but only food for thoughts! It is now only a museum.
You can read more about them in the article: The Trajan's Market: Ancient Roman Markets
Campo de’ Fiori
From a medieval field to a bustling market
It was used for storing the charioteers for racing in the Circo Massimo. (Map 2: Rome I & II Century A.C. Roman Empire)
Map Data © 2015 Google
After the fall of the Roman Empire, Rome remained uninhabited for centuries, and the square became just a plain meadow.
That is where the name originated from, Campo de’ Fiori meaning field of flowers. (Map 3: Rome 1000 A.C. uninhabited)
Map Data © 2015 Google
Map Data © 2015 Google
Its role in Rome's social and political life
The square was also used for public punishments and torture, one of the most famous being the burning at the stake of Giordano Bruno in 1600, a mathematician and philosopher who contradicted the Vatican with his Astrological discoveries.
The entire surrounding area of Campo de’Fiori was dedicated to commerce and artisan shops.
Each street was dedicated to a specific trade, the origin of their names, e.g., Via dei Giubbonari for jacket manufacturers (giubbotti), Via dei Cappellari for hat makers (cappelli), and many more.
Twenty minutes walk from Campo dei Fiori you find via Panisperna, where the name Panino originated.
It was named after the popular snack of sandwiches made with ham and must, cooked in water from dried figs, a favorite among the locals.
You can read more about it in the article: Italian street food: recipes
From the 1500s to the 1900s, the population of Rome was confined within the city walls.
Outside the walls, Rome was surrounded by farms – both crops and livestock.
The best of the farmers' produce was destined for the tables of the wealthy Clerics in the Vatican and the Aristocracy.
While the rich consumed the best cuts of meat from the livestock, common people had to survive on the animal leftovers.
That is why Roman cuisine is rich in unusual and some “unappetizing” delicacies!
- Rigatoni alla Pajata: Pasta rigatoni served in a sauce made with the small intestines of milk-fed veal still containing the chyme (mass of partly digested food expelled by the stomach into the duodenum and moves through the intestines during digestion), which makes the sauce rich and creamy.
- Tripe: the rubbery lining of a cow’s stomach flavored with mint and seasoned with abundant pecorino romano
- Oxtail: made from the animal's tail (usually oxen), stewed, and topped with various vegetables.
Those meals might sound unappetizing, but they are still popular street food dishes today, and even in these times of consumerism, they are served in restaurants and regarded as delicacies.
If you fancy a try, you will find them mostly in Trastevere.
The current appeal to locals and tourists
But Roman cuisine is famous for many more appetizing regional delicacies, like Abbacchio alla Romana, Carciofi alla Romana, Puntarelle, Porchetta, Pizza al Taglio and many more.
Not only can you order them at restaurants, but you can also find all the necessary ingredients in the farmer's markets.
Nowadays, Campo de’Fiori remains one of the busiest tourist destinations for farmer's markets and shops.
Not far from Piazza Navona, with charming market stalls and small streets full of restaurants and cafes, Campo de’ Fiori is a unique and attractive place to wander around during your visits to Rome.
The perfect tourist farmer's market!
Visit Piazza Campo de ’Fiori for the following attractions:
- Charming old town with a local culture
- Colorful stalls and souvenirs
- Cooking classes and market tour
- Refreshing fruits to eat and fruit juices
Mercato Trionfale
Origin and evolution
(Map 5: Rome 1878 expansion)
Following the unification of Italy in 1870 and the inclusion of Rome, the city underwent a major expansion, and new districts were designed and built as part of the Urban Planning Scheme presented in 1873.
Map Data © 2015 Google
Next to the Vatican, the Prati neighbourhood, around Via Cola di Rienzo, was created for the barracks and military housing of the new Republic.
This is where the Mercato Trionfale is located in via Andrea Doria, just a 4-minute walk from the Vatican Museums.
It is a unique location, close to one of the busiest attractions in Rome, but off the beaten path of the typical tourist destinations and in the middle of a busy residential community.
Roman food shopping
That is a Roman market where “the Romans do” their grocery shopping.
This is a popular market where you will find all the Roman specialities for the local cuisine:
• artichokes,
• porchetta Romana,
• wildbore sausages,
• Pecorino Romano,
• fresh pasta,
• fresh meat and fish stall,
• during the winter you can find the famous Roman puntarelle and agretti
For more information about History of roman food you can read the article: Traditional Italian food by region: Lazio
With an underground parking it is very easy to get to, but the best time to go is early morning.
As every Italian farmer's market it is closed in the afternoon and by late morning the local produce will be gone.
If you are staying at an Airbnb in Prati and want to cook your Italian dinner, this is the right place to go.
For inspiration you can check the article: Italian Sunday Dinner a 6 meal course.
The diverse range of Mediterranean cuisine
Rome remains an important center for Mediterranean cuisine.
Many professionals of Southern Italian origins (Mezzogiorno) have relocated to Rome to study or find a job, and their traditional Mediterranean cuisine has followed them.
Sicily, Napoli, Calabria, and Puglia products are available in most local Roman markets.
I would recommend making the most of it!
Visit the Mercato Trionfale for its unique products:
- Gigantic mozzarella from Naples
- Cheese from the south of Italy
- The tastiest tomatoes
- Seasonal vegetables at the best prices
If you want to bring home some specialties, you can ask to vacuum package them for the flight
The best of Rome food markets
Trajan's Market, Campo dei Fiori, and Trionfale Market are not just landmarks but pivotal chapters in Rome's culinary and historical narrative.
They embody the evolution of the city's gastronomy and culture, from the ancient empire to modern-day vibrancy.
These markets offer more than just food; they provide a taste of Rome's enduring legacy, blending tradition with contemporary flair.
I invite you to explore these markets firsthand, to truly experience the essence of Roman life and its rich, culinary heritage.
(Map 6: Rome 2015)
Map Data © 2015 Google
Other Roman markets
Other Roman markets that are worth a visit are:
- Mercato Testaccio: close to the Circo Massimo a mix of food and clothes
- New mercato Esquilino dedicated to Asian and African food. It is close to the Stazione Centrale where you can find exotic fruits, vegetables and Asian spices
More information about the history of Italian food
Food and markets during the Roman Empire
To find out more about the history of food and markets during the Roman Empire, you can read the articles:
Hope you find this article helpful, please if you have any questions, write them in the comments below and I will be happy to respond and help.
For more information, you can visit the category: Italian food traditions.
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Jamie
I love that you are incorporating history with your suggestions of things to do and see 🙂 My trips to Rome were definitely highlights, and reading your post made me want to go there again...NOW!
Laura
Thank you Jamie. The market is always a good itinerary if you really want to know more about a culture
Fatima
Interesting post and pics! I never would have thought to write something like this so I enjoyed it!
Laura
I love to walk you through my city. Thank you Fatima
Rabz Haq
Lovely post..
Great pics.
Laura
Thank you Rabz
LEgend
Nice work keep it up
Laura
Thanks
Lisa
I love Rome such a beautiful city with so much history
Laura
Thank you Lisa
Fliss
WOW. Incredibly informative - I will be following (and planning my next few trips) for more of your great ideas!
Thanks!
Fliss
http://sweetcleanliving.com
Laura
Thank you Fliss, food is part of our history. They go hand in hand
Faithey
I love the history of Rome! what a great way to give informations. thanks for sharing.
Laura
You are welcome
Ella
I loved reading this! Food, history and Rome! Who can want more?! I miss Rome! Lovely stuff!
Laura
Thank you, next time you go don't miss the markets !
Janne
Rome is such a great city! Love this post 🙂
Laura
Thank you Janne
Caroline at Pinch Me, I'm Eating!
Thanks so much for the informative article! I will definitely be referencing this again when we get to Rome!
Laura
Thank you Caroline, I am sure you will enjoy